EFTA00283811.pdf
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Extracted Text (OCR)
Dear
and Ike,
The pages to follow contain your TOTAL HOME INSPECTION re ort which is based on
observations made while conducting an inspection of 1
The purpose of this inspection was to assess and report the condition of the dwelling through
visual inspection and when possible an operational check of its unconcealed, observable and
accessible major components. Our inspection and this report do not identify, nor are they intended
to identify, every minute or latent defect. The inspection and report do identify, in general
accordance with the State of Connecticut's Home Inspection Standards of Practice, the systems and
components that are near the end of their serviceable lives and the significant defects or
deficiencies of the systems and components our inspector identified at the time of your inspection.
Your inspection and this report will provide you with enhanced general insight and useful
information about the house, and will contain comments that should help you better maintain it
should you become its owner. As one example, because water and moisture are the root cause of
many problems in dwellings of all kinds, any and all references to water or moisture, no matter
how small, should be taken seriously and acted upon.
Ike was issued a copy of relevant sections of the State of Connecticut Regulation Concerning Home
Inspectors (the "Standards of Practice & Code of Ethics"). We recommend that you retain this copy
of the Standards of Practice & Code of Ethics in the event that you need to better understand the
scope and purpose of your home inspection.
I
EFTA00283811
As you read our report, know that we frequently reference specific locations inside or outside the
house. For clarity's sake, please keep in mind that locations are frequently expressed as if from a
vantage point at the front of the house, as if we are facing it. If we write, "the rear left bedroom",
rear means the section of the house farthest from the vantage point, and left means the part of the
house to the left of the vantage point.
Performing a TOTAL HOME INSPECTION for you and providing this report has been our
privilege. Should you have any questions concerning this report or if we can be of further
assistance in any way, please do not hesitate to contact our office.
LANDSCAPING
At this time of year, non-coniferous trees are seasonally dormant. As a result we cannot offer an
evaluation of their condition. We suggest that you examine the trees on the property, in the spring,
to determine if any dead trees or branches are overhanging or in a position to harm the building
structure and grounds or cause injuries should they fall.
There are branches overhanging the roof and gutter system (see
photo left). By trimming or removing them, you will likely reduce
roofing, gutter and siding maintenance and repair and you will
also remove a potential bridge for animals.
Some of the tree branches on the property (e.g. front yard) are
supported by cables to help prevent them from falling onto the
property causing consequential damage and harm.
The plantings were in
generally
acceptable
condition, but some
appeared
to
be
dormant. We suggest
that you examine the
plantings in the spring
to determine if any are
dead. In the interim, some of the shrubbery needs minor
pruning (see photo right for example area). Trimming
the plantings away from the foundation and building to
afford a minimum of twelve inches of clearance between
the shrubs and exterior cladding will help prevent moisture from being trapped against the
structure, potentially promoting rot on and beneath vulnerable exterior components.
The lawn was in generally acceptable condition, although spotty areas were observed. With an
open tree canopy and proper, consistent maintenance, the lawn's appearance would likely improve
over the next year or two.
A capped, white, PVC pipe was observed in the front left center
flower bed (see photo right). Our inspector was unable to
definitively determine a purpose for the pipe (sewer line clean
out access or a planned in-ground receptacle for a gutter system
leader?) therefore we recommend that you inquire with the
seller as to its purpose.
2
EFTA00283812
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∑
EFTA00283813
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EFTA00283814
tight envelope for the house, and will protect the siding and substrates from exposure to moisture
and deterioration.
There are areas around the house where the siding was too close to, or even in contact with the
soil. This will eventually lead to a rotting condition and will invite insect activity. Cut the grade or
remove lower courses of siding in these areas, so that at least 6" of foundation is exposed. This
would lend itself to a healthier wood environment. Keep these areas free from debris so that it can
be inspected for any rotting or insect evidence.
There were places around the house where rot or the
onset of wood rot was observed, for example at the
lower course of shingles at the rear center part of the
house (see photo right of example shingles). This and all
rotted or potentially rotted wood should be removed,
and the sub-surfaces should be repaired as necessary.
When the sub-surfaces are repaired, new wood should
be installed, caulked and painted. Potentially rotting
wood that is not repaired remains an invitation to insect
infestation. When the sub-surfaces are exposed, if any
insect activity is found, it should be treated as necessary
at that time.
The exterior was peeling and stained in some areas, but it was generally in acceptable condition.
Plans should include refinishing the offending areas in the future to help ensure a weather tight
seal.
Because portions of the left side patio are pitched toward the house, rainwater may eventually seep
into the house and its lower level. Future consideration should be given to re-pitching the patio.
The rear patio was settled and uneven. This condition may be or develop into a tripping hazard
and should be corrected for your safety.
Water was supplied to the front left side, left side, rear right side and one of the rear left center
exterior hose bibcocks (faucets) as well as to the garage hose bibcock (faucet) at the time of this
inspection. No water was supplied to the other rear left center exterior hose bibcock (faucet) at the
time of this inspection. We recommend that the water supply to all exterior water sources and
freeze vulnerable water sources are turned off in the autumn and that all hoses are disconnected
from the faucets, to help prevent damage caused by pipes that may freeze. Inquire with the seller
as to the locations of the inside shut off valves for these hose bibs.
A propane tank was located at the rear left side of the
house. The propane gas (LPG) shut off valve is located
under the top cover of the tank (see photo right).
Inspecting barbecues is beyond the scope of the
standard home inspection we performed for you. As a
result, no evaluation of the barbecue, its equipment and
its installation has been included in this report. We
suggest you ask the seller or service company
responsible for the barbecue's maintenance to render an
opinion as to its condition.
5
EFTA00283815
SEWAGE DISPOSAL
It has been reported to our office that this house has been connected to the city sewer system. We
recommend confirmation of this with the local municipality.
BASEMENT & STRUCTURE
It was indicated to us that this house is approximately 64 years old, with apparent renovations,
additions and modifications performed since its original construction. It is a two-and-one half
story, expanded Cape Cod styled, wood-framed dwelling.
The basement (utility closet) was accessed from the first floor while the crawl spaces were accessed
by portals in the foundation walls. The accessible areas were all inspected from within.
This house had a crawl space at the rear left part of the
house that we were unable to enter due to the small
portal being blocked by ductwork and waste pipes (see
photo right). As a result, we could not inspect important
structural and mechanical conditions within that area or
provide any definitive findings about this area this
report. We recommend that this area be made accessible
and an inspection by TOTAL HOME INSPECTION and
a licensed pest control company be arranged prior to
your closing.
To help eliminate an inviting environment for wood
destroying insects, the wood, detritus and debris should be removed from the crawl space areas.
The foundation walls are concrete blocks. Settlement cracks were noted in the foundation at the
time of the inspection. Settlement cracks are not uncommon and are usually the result of improper
soil grading around foundations. This condition is presently not a structural problem. It must be
noted that settlement cracks could develop into structural cracks. Periodic inspection of these
cracks and proper care should prevent future problems. These cracks should be filled from the
exterior with a suitable material to help prevent seepage and they should be monitored for any
further movement.
The main girders are built up 2" x 12" 's, while the first floor joists are 2" x 8" 's and 2" x 10" 's
installed 16" on center. The exterior walls appear to be 2" x 4" 's installed 16" on center. The girders
are supported by concrete block piers and by the foundation walls. Where visible, the
aforementioned structural components appeared to be in generally acceptable condition.
The insulation visible beneath the first floor sub flooring will likely help improve energy efficiency
and comfort.
The sagging, fallen, displaced and missing sections of
insulation beneath the first floor sub flooring visible in
the crawl space areas (see photo right for example area)
should be reinstalled or replaced as required to help
improve energy efficiency and comfort.
No wood destroying insect report is contained in this
inspection report. This house was not inspected for any
type of wood destroying insects by TOTAL HOME
INSPECTION, however, All County Pest Control (203-
6
EFTA00283816
327-0259) did inspect the property for wood destroying insects and they issued an official Wood
Destroying Insect Report. It must be noted that the a
Standards of Practice regulating home
inspectors prevents All County Pest Control and TOTAL HOME INSPECTION from performing
destructive testing/inspections or determine or confirm insect damage to areas that are not visible
for inspection. Annual termite inspections are recommended.
Evidence of rodent activity was observed in the crawl spaces. From our observation of droppings,
nesting holes and nesting materials, we cannot determine if there has been an occasional rodent in
the home or if there has been a rodent infestation. We recommend that you inquire with the
current owner about any previous rodent infestation and what actions have been taken to control
this condition. If the owner is unaware of this condition, then a rodent inspection by a qualified
exterminator is recommended.
As representative measures toward controlling general dampness in the crawl spaces, we
recommend that the cold water lines be insulated and that you consider installing a fan to enhance
airflow and a dehumidifier to actively extract moisture from the area.
Watermarks were evident in the basement/ utility room area and in the crawl spaces. This indicates
water has entered these areas in the past. The areas were dry at the time of the inspection. Be sure
that all exterior grades pitch away from the foundation and extend the guttering system as far
away from the foundation as practical (see LANDSCAPING and BUILDING EXTERIOR sections
of this report). It must be noted that any area below grade is susceptible to water seepage during
certain weather conditions. If after performing the above recommendations, water seepage is still
evident, consultation with a waterproofing specialist may be necessary.
We were unable to operate the sump pump because it
was located beneath a sealed cover (see photo right —
blue arrow). Its operation could only be verified by the
test button on the pump piping (see photo right - red
arrow). Sump pumps should be kept in good working
order and tested several times a year. We recommend
that you maintain the battery operated back-up system
installed for the sump pump to help ensure its operation
during a power outage.
The sump pump appears to discharge into the municipal
sewer system, which is not allowed by most
municipalities. The sump pump should discharge into a storm drain or onto the ground surface as
far away from the building as practical.
HEATING
Consistent with the information provided by the Standard Oil
technician who evaluated the system, the heating plant is an oil-fired,
steel, Thermo Pride brand furnace (serial # 42142911/ model # OT16-
125 — see photo right). The furnace fired satisfactorily at the time of
this inspection. It should be cleaned, including flue passages, and all
components adjusted to operate at peak performance. The fan unit
and blades should be vacuumed and lubricated, as required, and the
belts adjusted or replaced. All safety devices should be checked. The
heat exchanger should be inspected for cracks and
leaks prior to
your closing (the heat exchanger can only be totally inspected by
dismantling the furnace). If it cannot be verified that this furnace and
7
EFTA00283817
its components have been serviced and cleaned within the past year, arrangements should be
made for that servicing.
The electronic air filter installed on the furnace was not functional at the time of this inspection. The
electronic air filter should be repaired and serviced as per the manufacturer's recommendations or
as was the case at the time of this inspection, an appropriately sized replacement filter should be
properly installed in the electronic air cleaner compartment to help allow the HVAC system to
function at peak performance levels and to help prevent damage to components in the furnace.
The replaceable air filter should be changed about every 12-to-16 weeks, or as needed during
operation.
There are visible fractures on the furnace's combustion chamber liner. If any of these cracks extend
through the fire lining and excessive heat comes into contact with the metal lining of the heating
plant, the life expectancy of the unit will be reduced. A service company should check and replace
the firebox lining if necessary.
There is no draft control installed on the smoke pipe of the heating plant. This device controls the
draft at the combustion chamber. A proper operating draft control will result in fuel economy
therefore a draft control should be installed.
The furnace appears to be approximately 23 years old. Furnaces that have been properly
maintained have an average useful life expectancy of approximately 20-30 years. Due to its
apparent age, continued trouble-free operation is questionable. Your plans should include
replacing the furnace before/when it fails.
The humidifier (see photo left) was not operational at
the time of inspection. If you intend to use this unit,
request it be put in good working condition.
Humidifiers are prone to leaking. If leaking occurs, it
should be serviced promptly to prevent damage to the
heat exchanger and/or to the ductwork. Humidifiers
should
be
serviced
in accordance with
the
manufacturer's recommended procedure. We do not
recommend the use of this type of humidifier.
The humidifier bypass should be open during the
heating season and closed during the cooling season.
Our inspector was unable to locate a "remote" burner shut off switch to turn off the furnace's
burner unit. A shut off switch should be installed outside of the furnace room/utility room.
Inquire with the seller as to the location of the remote shut off switch. If there is no remote shut off
switch, we recommend that one be installed for your safety.
• '''0;l4
•
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10
-
4
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We recommend that all heating and air conditioning ducts be insulated for better energy efficiency.
All forced air systems, including ducts should be cleaned as required to help prevent possible
accumulations of dust, dirt, allergenic substances, pathogenic substances and/or toxicogenic
substances. We do not test for indoor "air pollution", which the Consumer Product Safety
Commission rates fifth among potential contaminants. Nevertheless, inasmuch as health is a
personal responsibility, we recommend that you have the indoor air quality tested as a prudent
investment in environmental hygiene, and particularly if you or any member of your family suffers
from allergies or asthma.
8
EFTA00283818
The heat distribution is one zone of forced hot air. Pursuant to Ike's advice, all heat sources were
adequately warm, but some sources were warmer than others. There could be several causes for
this condition, including the system needing to be balanced. A qualified HVAC service company
should make the necessary repairs or adjustments for your comfort.
The dining room is supplementally heated via independent fan induced electric resistant heaters.
These heaters were operated at the time of inspection and found to operate as designed. Replace
the missing cover on the right-most heater and be sure not to allow any electric cords, furnishings,
draperies or flammable objects to rest against the electric strip heaters while in use. Any outlets
installed directly over an electric strip heater should be relocated for your safety.
The front right 2nd floor bathroom's ensuite bathroom is supplementally heated via an independent
electric resistant wall heater. This heater was also operated at the time of inspection and found to
operate as designed. In this case, we also recommend that you be sure not to allow any electric
cords, furnishings, draperies or flammable objects to rest against the electric wall heater while in
use.
The visible areas of the 15-year old, 275-gallon, oil
storage tank were in generally acceptable condition (see
photo left red arrow). Oil storage tanks have an average
useful life expectancy of 30-40 years but the life
expectancy can be affected significantly by the
environment around the tank.
The main fuel (#2 heating oil) shut off valve is located in
the garage at the base of the aforementioned 275-gallon
oil storage tank (see photo left — white arrow).
The
oil
supp y pipes are covere
concrete in the garage
and they run below the concrete floor in the crawl space
(see photo right for example area), preventing
evaluation of the oil supply pipes. The copper pipes are
likely to be adversely affected by their contact with the
concrete. It should be noted that oil could leak from
these pipes below the concrete. We recommend that you
have your oil supplier re-route the oil lines as required
to remedy this condition and that the pipes be encased
in protective sleeves to help prevent damage to the
pipes.
This house appears to have an abandoned or removed buried oil tank. Abandoning or removing
oil tanks should be done in accordance with all local, state and E. P. A. regulations. We
recommend that you obtain the appropriate documentation confirming that the tank has been
abandoned or removed according to these regulations.
HEATING WATER
The water is heated by an independent, 80-gallon, electric, A. O. Smith brand, water heater (serial #
MG88-0025599-913 — see photo below left) with a recovery rate of approximately 80 gallons per
hour. The hot water supply system was evaluated and found to provide adequate amounts of hot
water to all fixtures tested, at the time of this inspection.
9
EFTA00283819
It is recommended that electric water heaters be flushed
periodically to help prevent internal rusting and to maintain an
efficiency level.
According to our inspector's thermometer, the undiluted hot
water temperature was approximately 133.6 degrees Fahrenheit. It
is recommended that the undiluted hot water temperature remain
between 120 degrees Fahrenheit and 125 degrees Fahrenheit to
prevent scalding and for your comfort. Make the appropriate
adjustments for safety purposes.
The water heater appears to be 23 years old. Water heaters that
service municipal water supplies and that are properly maintained
have an average useful life expectancy of 10-15 years. These units
deteriorate from the inside out. We have no way of determining
the interior condition of the water heater. Your plans should
include replacing the water heater before it fails.
We recommend installing a pan and a drain under the water heater to prevent damage caused by a
system failure or the discharge from the safety device.
Most water heaters are equipped with an anode rod or with anode rods that serve as a "sacrificial"
material to help prevent the interior tank from corroding. Replacement of depleted rods can extend
the life of your water heater, so periodic inspections are recommended. Most water heater
manufacturers recommend that the inspections are conducted by a qualified technician and at a
minimum should be checked annually after the warrantee period expires.
COOLING
The Heat Controller brand, electric, air conditioning system condenser/compressor (serial #
28702111392) was not activated due to the low exterior temperatures. Most manufacturers
recommend, in order to avoid damage, that these units not be activated when exterior
temperatures fall below 65 degrees Fahrenheit. Obtain some type of guarantee from the seller that
this unit will be in good working condition when needed. For maximum efficiency, service the
equipment annually. Keep the outside compressor area clear of shrubbery, debris or restrictions.
No evaluation of the air conditioning system is contained in this report.
Air conditioning systems require special tools and equipment in order to evaluate their efficiency
and condition. You should consult with the present owner to see that the recommended annual
servicing has been performed and that there are no known deficiencies in the system.
The exterior condenser / compressor appears to be 24 years old. Air conditioning systems that are
properly maintained have an average useful life expectancy of 12-18 years. Due to its apparent age,
continued trouble-free operation is questionable. Your plans should include replacing the
necessary components of the cooling system when they fail.
The condensation drain for the air handler in the basement drains into the waste piping (see photo
below right). This is not recommended because when the drain traps dry out during the heating
season, septic gases can enter the air handler and possibly be distributed into the living space. We
recommend re-routing the drain to the exterior of the house and sealing the waste pipe to prevent
the gases from entering the basement space.
10
EFTA00283820
All forced air systems, including ducts should be cleaned as required to
help prevent possible accumulations of dust, dirt, allergenic substances,
pathogenic substances and/or toxicogenic substances. We do not test
for indoor "air pollution", which the Consumer Product Safety
Commission rates fifth among potential contaminants. Nevertheless,
inasmuch as health is a personal responsibility, we recommend that you
have the indoor air quality tested as a prudent investment in
environmental hygiene, and particularly if you or any member of your
family suffers from allergies or asthma.
WATER SYSTEM
It has been reported to our office that the water is
supplied via the local municipal water company.
The main water supply piping is copper. The main shut-
off valve is located in the crawl space (see photo right —
red arrow).
A "remote" meter reader has been installed on the water
meter in the crawl space (see photo right — blue arrow),
which should mean that the water meter should be able
to be read remotely from the exterior of the house.
The visible water supply lines are copper, plastic,
braided-metal and chromed-metal and they were in generally acceptable condition. We
recommend that all water supply pipes be insulated for better energy efficiency, to prevent
condensation and to protect them from the elements.
The water pressure and flow was acceptable at all plumbing fixtures that were tested.
The visible waste, vent and drainage pipes are PVC plastic, copper, galvanized metal, chromed
metal and cast iron. They too were in generally acceptable condition. Galvanized pipe rusts and
corrodes at the joints, and chemical deposits tend to build up on the inner wall linings, cutting off
the flow of water. Galvanized pipes have an average useful life span of 45-50 years before they
need to be replaced. Some of the galvanized has already been replaced. Monitor the galvanized
metal pipes.
Water flow and drainage were found acceptable at all plumbing locations that were tested, except
for the slow drain at the 2nd floor hall bathroom, which should be cleaned/repaired as necessary
for your convenience and to prevent consequential damage.
Note that we evaluate drain pipes by flushing every available drain that has an active fixture while
observing their draw and watching for blockages or slow drains, but this is not a conclusive test
and only a video camera scan of the main waste line would confirm its actual condition. However,
you can be sure that blockages will occur, usually relative in severity to the age of the system, and
will range from minor ones in the branch lines, or at the traps beneath sinks, tubs and showers, to
major blockages in the main line. The minor ones are easily cleared, either by appropriate chemical
means or by removing and cleaning the traps. However, if tree roots for example, grow into the
main drain that connects the house to the public sewer, repairs could become more costly. For
these reasons, we recommend that you ask the seller if they have ever experienced any drainage
problems, or you may wish to have the main waste line video-scanned before your closing. Failing
II
EFTA00283821
this, we recommend that you obtain an insurance policy that covers blockages and damage to the
main sewage pipe(s).
ELECTRICITY
The 200-ampere, 120 / 240-volt electrical system enters the building via overhead cables. The electric
meter and main service disconnect switch are located on the exterior of the building (see photo
below left). The primary panelboard (load center) is located in the basement/utility room. (see
photo below center). There is also a secondary panelboard (sub panel) located in the
basement/ utility room. The main distribution panel has been fed with aluminum feeders. The sub
panel has been fed with copper. Where visible the distribution conductors (wires) are copper,
armored cable (AC / BX) and copper, non-metallic sheathed cable (NM / Romex) type conductors
(wires). They were in generally acceptable condition. All circuit breakers in the electrical panel
should be properly labeled for your safety and for your convenience. The electrical breaker
switches in the panel should be tested on an annual basis. The system has been grounded to the
incoming water pipe.
IL _a
There is a 20-ampere electrical circuit breaker in the main electric panel (r d breaker down on the
left side of the panel — see photo above center) that has not been wired correctly. The correct size
breaker must be fitted onto the correct size wire to prevent overheating of the wire. The 20-ampere
breaker should be fitted with a 12 gauge wire for your safety. Have a qualified, licensed electrical
contractor make the necessary corrections prior to your closing.
Some of the electrical wiring is of the armored cable (AC / BX), cloth and varnish insulation type.
This wiring was commonly used during the era in which this house was constructed/renovated.
As this type of branch circuit conductors gets older, it can fray and get brittle. It is common to
observe some fraying at the connections where this type of wiring is in use. This is especially
evident if these wires have been disturbed while performing repairs or renovations. It is common
to have to repair or replace brittle and frayed cloth wiring when electrical outlets, wall switches
and lighting fixtures are repaired or updated in a house using this type of wiring. Please note that
we are unable to check the wiring concealed behind the walls, ceilings and in junction boxes, at the
outlets, at wall switches, at electrical fixtures, etc., therefore we cannot report on the integrity of
these AC / BX cables with cloth insulated wires. The integrity and safety of these wires can only be
determined by specialized testing performed by a qualified, licensed electrician, therefore we
recommend that the AC wires with cloth insulation be tested for your safety.
12
EFTA00283822
This house has been fitted with a generator system in
case of a power outage (see photo right of part of the
interior components located in the basement/utility
room). Evaluating generator systems is beyond the
scope of the standard home inspection we performed
for you, therefore no evaluation of the system is
included in this report. Inquire with the seller or a
qualified contractor that specializes in generators
regarding the proper operation of this system. We also
recommend that you inquire with the seller as to
whether the generator is included in the purchase price
of the house.
The smoke and fire alarms throughout this house should be tested frequently and kept in good
working condition. Carbon monoxide detectors, fire extinguishers and additional smoke and fire
detectors should be installed as required pursuant to local regulations, for your safety and for your
convenience.
Electrical receptacles (outlets) in any bathroom or powder room, over a kitchen counter top,
installed on a kitchen "island", in the garage, at the electrical distribution panel, and on the exterior
of the house and grounds, should be of the safer "Ground Fault Circuit Interrupter" (GFCI) type.
This safety outlet breaks the flow of electricity in the event of a short, preventing electric shock.
These devices should be installed where necessary, for example in the kitchen, in the butler's
kitchen, in the bathrooms (master bathroom is okay), and on the exterior of the house (rear left
center)). They should be checked monthly to insure they are performing as designed.
There are a minimum number of electrical receptacles (outlets) in some rooms. As finances permit,
consider having a qualified, licensed electrical contractor install additional outlets for your
convenience.
Some of the electrical receptacles (outlets) throughout the house are the older two-pronged type
receptacles. As an upgrade we recommend the two-pronged receptacles be changed to the newer
three-pronged grounded receptacles (outlets). This is most important where an appliance will be
used. We were unable to check the wiring in the wall, so when your electrician is replacing or
rewiring receptacles, any dried or frayed internal wiring should be checked and replaced as
required for your safety.
ATTIC
The upper attic is accessed by a ceiling hatch in the 2nd floor hall bathroom. Our inspector did not
inspect this attic at the time of this inspection. He will return to the house when he collects the
radon in the air test monitor on Wednesday, 12/14, 2011 and he will report his findings at that
time.
The attic space also consists of storage voids at the perimeter (eaves) of the roofline, accessed by
wall hatches in the two e d floor bedrooms. Where visible (insulation between the rafters in
portions of the eaves) they were in acceptable condition.
Repair or replace the torn screen on the left-most gable end louver in the stand-up area of the
right-most storage eave area to help prevent insects and small animals from entering the attic area.
The space between the roof rafters should only be insulated in specialized situations and then, only
when properly vented. The condition that now exists in the parts of the storage eave can cause
13
EFTA00283823
condensation to form between the insulation and roof structure. Remove the insulation and re-
install it in a wall or floor that separates a heated area from an unheated area. Remember the
vapor barrier should face the heated surface. Once the insulation is removed, the rafters, structural
members and the roof sheathing should be checked to determine if there is any damage. Again,
insulation should not be installed over or in close proximity to heat-emitting objects, e.g., deficient
electrical systems, exposed electrical wiring or open junction boxes, recessed or surface mounted
light fixtures or exhaust flues of heat-producing devices. Heat-emitting objects like these, covered
by or in contact with insulation, may represent a potential fire hazard.
GARAGE
The three-car garage has a concrete floor. The walls and ceiling are gypsum board. Due the
materials being stored in the garage, we were unable to inspect all parts of its interior surfaces.
Where visible (see photos below left, below center and below right), they were generally in
acceptable condition with the observations to follow to be taken into account and corrections made
as required.
The concrete floor and its apron area have developed cracks. Usually caused by frost action below
the slab, this condition is common with slab type garage floors. Filling, patching and sealing these
cracks will help arrest further deterioration of the garage floor surface in the near term.
The garage storage loft is accessed by a pull-down staircase in
the garage (see photo left). It has been framed for lightweight
storage only. Do not store any heavy objects in this loft.
We recommend that you consider installing guard railing at
the attic staircase opening for your safety and for your
convenience.
To increase the energy efficiency of the garage loft-to-bonus
room door, add weather-stripping to the perimeters of the
door and its frame.
The garage has been fitted with three electrically operated, overhead doors. The doors were spot
tested and found to be in proper working condition, with their safety reversing functions operating
adequately to help prevent entrapment. The doors' reversing actions should be tested frequently
and kept in good working order for your safety.
14
EFTA00283824
We recommend that the firewood be removed from the garage
(see example of firewood in the garage in photo left). It should
be stored as far away from the structure as practical to help
control the moisture level in the garage and to help prevent and
inviting environment for wood destroying insects and rodents.
Our inspector was unable to operate the front pedestrian
entrance door. Make the necessary repairs to the door and its
components as required for your convenience.
INTERIOR ROOM COMMENTS
The interior rooms were checked for major flaws. In addition, ceilings and walls were checked for
past leak sites and for significant cracks. Floors were checked for significant humps or severe pull
aways. Windows were checked for cracked panes and a representative number of windows, doors,
light switches and electrical outlets were tested for their operating characteristics. The appliances
were spot tested, on a limited basis, to see that they operated at the time of this inspection. Due to
the mercurial nature of household appliances, the home inspection we conducted for you does not,
in any respect, warranty or guarantee their condition.
Assessing the drafting ability of fireplace and heating system flues is beyond the scope of the home
inspection as defined by the governing "Standards of Practice & Code of Ethics", therefore no
evaluations or representations are made as to the drafting performance of any such flues.
Please refer to following general notes and room-by-room findings for additional maintenance and
repair items.
GENERAL NOTES
There were settled and out-of-level floors observed in the house. Normal shrinkage and settlement
of building materials or even vibrations from renovations or activity within the house are often the
cause. Because we saw no evidence of instability, we consider the observed conditions to be
consistent with the age of this house. Repairs, for cosmetic purposes, can be undertaken at your
discretion.
Properly refitting the e d floor hall bathroom door, the left side bedroom entrance door and the left
side bedroom's closet door will enhance ease of use and permit them to dose fully and latch dosed.
Corrugated
stainless steel
tubing (CSST)
was observed
in the crawl
space
(see
photo right)
and in the
garage
(see
photo
left),
apparently
servicing the
propane-fired range top burners and the left side barbeque. This type of flexible tubing has thin
walls and would be vulnerable to splitting, in the event of the house incurring a lightning strike, for
example. For more information regarding the safety of this type of product and recommendations
15
EFTA00283825
for homeowners with this type of corrugated stainless steel tubing in their homes, we recommend
that you visit the internet's http://www.pddocs.com/csst/default.aspx
We recommend installing exhausts fans in the r d floor hall bathroom and in the front right
bedroom's ensuite bathroom to help remove moisture from their general areas.
All sink top-to-wall or splash plate joints and all counter top-to-wall or splash plate joints should be
kept grouted or caulked as required to help ensure a watertight seal at these seams and to help
prevent water infiltration and damage to the adjacent walls, the floors and their respective
substrata.
There were light switches throughout the house that we were unable to determine purposes for,
for example in the 21'd floor landing/hallway, in the master bedroom, in the master bathroom and
in the mudroom. If practical, we recommend that you ask the seller to walk you through the house
and familiarize you with the purpose for all wall switches and any nuances within the house to
help make your transition to home ownership more pleasant and convenient.
We recommend that you install door stoppers where appropriate to help prevent damage to walls,
trim and other components of the house that the doors could damage.
2nd FLOOR
Hall Bathroom:
There were loose wall tiles in the tub area. These tiles should be re-set
and re-grouted as required to help ensure a water fight seal. When the
tiles are removed, repair any damaged sub-sheathing.
Right Bedroom:
Properly adjusting the striking components of the closet door will help
permit it to latch closed.
Ensuite Bathroom:
Our inspector was unable to locate an outlet in the room. Install a GFCI
outlet for your convenience.
BONUS LEVEL
Bonus Room:
We recommend that a qualified person install suitable railings where
there are four or more step risers for example at the stairs from the
mudroom to the bonus room, for your safety, to reduce the potential
for falls and for ease of passage.
1st FLOOR
Mudroom/ Laundry Area: Ideally, washing machines should have a drain and a pan installed
under them to help prevent flooding in the event of spills, leaking or
malfunction. We think it is a good idea to maintain the washing
machine's durable, braided steel-type water supply hoses and to turn
off the water supply to the washing machine after each use. This will
help prevent damage in the event that the water supply hoses break,
tear, crack or split. Further, we recommend that you install a solid,
smooth wall, metal dryer vent pipe because it is less vulnerable than its
flexible counterparts to the lint and heat generated by the clothes
dryer's exhaust. Clothes dryer exhaust hoses/pipes should be cleaned
regularly for your safety.
Living Room:
The visible portions of the masonry fireplace and its components were
in generally acceptable condition, but the fireplace chimney
components should be cleaned, prior to additional use, for your safety.
16
EFTA00283826
CLOSING COMMENTS
This house visually appears to have been adequately built and maintained. It does need repairs,
modifications and homeowner-type maintenance as mentioned throughout the report. The cost of
repair for any of the items or conditions mentioned in this report should be estimated by local,
reputable contractors, prior to closing, so that you, the buyer, are fully aware of all costs. It's a
good idea to clean and polish all glass, hardware, plumbing fixtures and any tiled walls and floors
prior to occupancy. Try to obtain operating instructions and guarantees for all mechanical
equipment and appliances such as the range, fans, dishwasher, heating and cooling systems, water
heater, etc.
The State of Connecticut, Department of Housing recommends that we inform the purchasers of
any property, built prior to 1978, of the health hazards involved with lead based paints. Paint that
is cracked, chipped, blistered, flaking or loose may be a health hazard. Children are at greatest risk
to the problems associated with lead and lead based paints. The building, surrounding soils and
water were not tested for lead content. This is not part of a normal pre-purchase home inspection.
Any removal of lead paint should be done in accordance with local, state and E. P. A. regulations.
For specific questions about lead-based paints and lead-based paint hazards or for brochures
regarding lead-based paints and their hazards, call the National Lead Information Center at 1-800-
424-LEAD and visit the E.P.A. website regarding lead paint and the recent requirements regulating
contractors
that
disturb
painted
surfaces
in
homes
built
prior
to
1978, at
www.epa/ lead /pubs/ renovaterightbrochure.pdf.
At your request, a radon monitor was placed in this home at the time of your inspection, in a
dosed house environment. The results of this testing will be forwarded to you in approximately
three (3) days via e mail. It should be noted that this short-term testing was performed for
screening purposes only, because future results will be affected by different weather conditions
and by the seasons. We recommend testing the radon in air level on a regular basis to determine
the long-term exposure to radon gas in your home. TOTAL HOME INSPECTION cannot be
responsible for maintenance of E.P.A.-prescribed dosed house conditions during a radon test.
Should you have any questions, TOTAL HOME INSPECTION'S National Radon Safety Board
(NRSB) certified, Radon Measurement Specialist can be reached by telephoning (203) 966-8801.
Determining the presence or absence of mold, pathogenic and/or toxic substances inside or
outside the dwelling is also beyond the scope of the standard home inspection we have conducted
for you. All references to or omissions of references to mold, pathogenic and /or toxic substances
inside or outside the dwelling must not be construed as an authoritative evaluation or
identification by TOTAL HOME INSPECTION. In this regard, please note that mold follows
water / moisture and water follows gravity, consequently any area that is moist, wet or damp or is
in proximity to or below an area that has had past leaking or exposure to moisture or water has the
potential for mold growth and amplification. The determination to have a mold test or evaluation
performed or to correct an identified mold condition is entirely yours, and should be done based
upon the full scope of information available to you through your own due diligence. For some
basic
information
on
mold,
visit
the
E.
P.
A.'s
web
site
at
www.epa.gov / iaq / molds / moldguide.html.
TOTAL HOME INSPECTION has accepted no fee for, therefore offers no assurance and accepts no
liability for, any comments and observations in, or omissions from your TOTAL HOME
INSPECTION report that exceed the State of Connecticut's Home Inspection Standards of Practice.
If the information, findings or disclaimers contained in this report, or the limitations of the State of
Connecticut Regulation Concerning Home Inspectors (the Standards of Practice and Code of
17
EFTA00283827
Ethics) do not address your need for information, we encourage you to contact a qualified, licensed
specialist in the area of your concern for further insight and evaluation.
Thank you Lesley and Ike, for the opportunity to serve you. Should you have any questions,
comments or concerns regarding your inspection or this report, or if we can help you in any way at
all, please do not hesitate to contact our offices. We wish you many happy years at 159 Oenoke
Ridge and encourage you to visit our web site at www.totalhomeinspection.com for helpful hints
on seasonal maintenance, maintenance of the major mechanical systems in your home, tips for
getting your house ready for a home inspection, information about radon, wood destroying
insects / termites and many other topics that can make your homeownership easier and even more
satisfying.
REAR VIEW (Eastern Exposure):
18
EFTA00283828
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